At the end of my last post, I was all done with the skirt and on to the bodice, wired collar, stomacher and sleeves.
The bodice pattern is from Tudor Tailor. I did alter it though. I added a seam up the side front. It's in shoomlah's original drawing so I added it. The collar is also from Tudor Tailor. It's the plain collar on pg 133. I don't think you can get that pattern from the website. It's only in the book.
It's rich dark blue silk velvet... Also I'm working out the stomacher here.
I was thinking I'd whip stitch the wired collar to the bodice, but thought better of it when I thought of travel. I've since sewn hooks to the bodice and thread bars to the collar.
The collar is cotton organdy. the outside edge and sides were sewn right sides together turned and the wire was bent and slid between the 2 layers and hand sewn with a running stitch. The neck edge was rolled hemmed.
Stomacher is also from Tudor Tailor. I beaded it with whatever beads I had in my stash, some pearls, and lots of glass in various shades of blue and gray. I did the beading on a hoop my husband made for me. It's my lacie tabour stand with a PVC rectangle hoop bolted on. I used the method of drawing the beading pattern on tissue paper and sewing the beads through the paper and tearing it all away when the beadings all done.
FRANKINHOOP!! It's Alive! :)
The actual construction of the stomacher was straight forward... it's boned with rigilene boning... got a strength layer of twill and lined in blue linen. The fashion layer is 2 toned with the top most edge being a golden silk strip with an embroidered apple motif. :)
The bodice closes with internal laces, the stomacher is sewn to the left side and uses hooks and bars on the right.
The sleeves are kinda not my favorite part... I wish I had constructed them different, but I'm NOT changing it now. :)
I used an undersleeve. That in itself is good! it worked really well and kept the puffs puffy were they aught to be, but I think I should have had the undersleeves of the puffs separate instead of attaching everything to one undersleeve. it was a very awkward and frustrating construction. Don't get me wrong... it worked, but not prettily. :/
These are the elbow puffs.
You can see how the undersleeve really works well holding the puffs in place.
The next thing was the fashion layers embroidery.
The bits were sewn together to create bands and cuffs, and then applied to the undersleeve. This is where it got really frustrating. The sleeve is narrow and it was super hard to keep the underlayer from being caught up in the bands topstitching. GAH. **head desk** what a newby kinda play... but hey! take my pain to heart and learn from my mistakes. L0L. :)
Red velvet ribbon was added for trim and last but not least those mother of pearl beads were sewn onto the silk.
At this point the gown is done! Yay! .... now I just need to DYE MY HAIR. :O scary.
Thanks for Reading! I'm really excited about this project. It was a bit of a drama to make, but it's going to be a BLAST to wear!